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On being a surfer

Pancho Sullivan

March 12, 2015

surfboards at sunset

Being a surfer changes your perspective on just about every aspect of life. I remember my first time on a surfboard so vividly. That euphoric sensation that comes over you and captivates your imagination and before you know it, your life is altered forever. No matter when you start or what level you’re at, everyone feels that same joy. The energy and power you feel being in the ocean brings you a greater appreciation for the simple beauty that surrounds you. There are so many visually spectacular things going on that it’s a complete sensory overload. You can’t help but be inspired by the ocean or learn more about yourself from the ultimate teacher. You’re constantly humbled, and then a moment later you’re feeling on top of the world as you concur the most intense situations and find yourself pushing the limits of your own physical abilities. And then there are the many different characters that we meet in and out of the water that blend a beautifully bizarre culture of personalities. Regardless of your age or where you’re from, surfers all share a passion for riding waves, a zest for life, and a connection to the energy of the ocean.

Pancho turn Pancho swim